Backstitch: Worked any distance from edge; use for uneven edges or to alter garment.

Bring needle up through 2 corresponding stitches; *insert through 2 stitches behind thread (where thread emerges for last stitch); bring up through 2 stitches in front of the thread.*

Slip stitch: A firm joining that is suitable for seams in which minimal stretch is required.

Draw up a loop through a corresponding stitch on each section; *insert hook through the next 2 stitches; draw a loop through both stitches and the loop on the hook.*

Slip stitch plus chain: A more flexible joining than plain slip stitch; use for bulky yarns or when more stretch is desired.

Work slip stitch through 2 corresponding stitches at start of row; *make a chain equal to height of row; work slip stitch at beginning of next row.*

Joining Sections Edge to Edge Overcast: Used mainly to join patchwork motifs. *Insert needle at a right angle under back loop of a corresponding stitch on each edge; draw yarn through.* When you reach the corners of 2 motifs, continue with the next 2 motifs. Weaving side edges: An invisible joining, especially suited to taller stitches and filet crochet. Lay sections right side up. *Take needle under lower half of edge stitch on one piece, then under lower half of edge stitch on one piece, then under upper half of edge stitch on adjacent piece.* Weaving top of bottom edges: Invisible joining for straight edges with equal numbers of stitches. Right sides up, *bring needle up through 1 loop, down through next loop on one edge; weave down and up through 2 loops on other edge.*

Slip Knot

To start, make a loop ( about 6″ from the yarn end), then hook another

loop through it.  Slide the knot up to the hook to tighten ( do not make to tight).

Chain Stitch (ch st)

The chain stitch is the foundation row of crochet. It should

be loose enough that the hook can enter each chain easily.

Yarn over hook and pull the yarn through to form a new loop.

Repeat to form as many chains as required. Do not count the

slip knot (loop on chain) as a stitch.

Single Crochet (sc) – UK term: Double Crochet (dc)

Inset hook into the 2nd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw

a loop through the chain (2 loops on hook). Yarn over hook and

draw through 2 loops to complete stitch.

Half Double Crochet (hdc)-UK term: Half Treble (htr)

Yarn over and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, catch yarn and

draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook), yarn over hook and

draw a loop through 3 loops to complete stitch

Double Crochet (dc) – UK term: Treble (tr)

Yarn over and insert hook in 4th chain from hook, catch yarn and

draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook), yarn over hook and

draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through last 2 loops to

complete stitch.

Triple (Treble) Crochet (tr) – UK term: Double Treble (dtr)

Yarn over hook twice, insert hook in 5th chain from hook, catch yarn

and draw a loop through the chain ( 4 loops on hook), yarn over, draw

through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 more loops, yarn over and

draw through last 2 loops to complete stitch.

Double Triple (Treble) Crochet (dtr)

Yarn over hook 3 times, insert hook in 6th chain from hook, catch yarn

and draw a loop through chain (5 loops on hook), yarn over, draw

through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 more loops, yarn over and

draw through 2 more loops, yarn over and draw through last 2 loops to

complete stitch.

 Slip Stitch (sl st)

The slip stitch is used principally for joining, like closing a ring, or for

seaming two finished pieces together.

Insert hook in chain (or stitch), catch yarn, draw a loop through both the

chain and the loop on the hook.

Variations on basic techniques

Working under one loop

As a rule (unless other wise stated), you insert the hook under two loops.

work back loop: insert hook (in back loop only), front to back, catch

the yarn, draw up a loop and complete the stitch.

work front loop: insert hook (in front loop only), front to back, catch

the yarn, draw up a loop and complete the stitch.

Working between stitches

This is a technique used in many patterns, meshes.

Work chain between stitches: Insert hook under the 2 top loops,

make stitch through the chain.

Work a chain space between stitches: Insert hook under the chain

and make a stitch or group of stitches over the chain.

Working around the post (the vertical shaft of a stitch)

This technique creates a three – dimensional effect. The post stitches can be

worked to either the front or the back, or front and back alternately,

depending on the desired results.

To Decrease 1 stitch in Single or Half Double Crochet, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop ( 3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through the 3 loops.

If a decrease is at the beginning of a row, you can skip the first stitch instead of working 2 stitches together. If a decrease is at the end of a row, skip the next to last stitch.

To Decrease 2 stitches in Single or Half Double Crochet, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, skip next stitch, insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop (there are 3 loops on the hook), yarn over, draw through the 3 loops.

To Decrease 1 stitch in Double Crochet, yarn over, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 3 loops.

If a decrease occurs at beginning of a row, you can skip the first stitch instead of working 2 stitches together. If at end of a row, skip next to last stitch.

To Decrease 2 stitches in Double Crochet, yarn over, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, skip next stitch, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, draw through 2 loop (there are 3 loops on the hook), yarn over, draw through 3 loops.

To Decrease 1 stitch in Triple Crochet, yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook); yarn over twice, insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 loops (there are 3 loops on the hook), yarn over, draw through last 3 loops.

To Decrease 2 stitches in Triple Crochet, follow the method tor decreasing 1 stitch, but skip a stitch between the 2 stitches that are worked together.

To Decrease several stitches at the beginning of a row without a change in stitch height, omit turning chain and work slip stitches for the number of decreases, make 1 single crochet in next stitch, then continue in pattern. Do not work the slip stitches on return row.

To Decrease several stitches at the end of a row without a change in stitch height, leave unworked the number of stitches to be decreased, work 1 slip stitch at end of row, chain 1 and turn. Skip the slip stitch, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, then continue in pattern.

To make a Single Increase, work 2 stitches in 1 stitch. All stitches are increased the same way.

To make a Double Increase, work 3 stitches in 1 stitch. All stitches are increased the same way.

To make a decorative double Increase (lacy chevron), work 2 chains at increase location. On next and subsequent rows, sork (1 stitch, 2 chains, 1 stitch) in 2-chain space of previous row.

To Increase several stitches at one edge, as when a sleeve is made in one piece with the garment, extend a chain from the side edge, then work back along the chain on the next row.

Blocking is the shaping of crocheted pieces to specific dimensions. At the same time it can smooth stitch irregularities.

There are two basic blocking methods - STEAM and WET. 

Steam employs moisture plus heat, and is most suitable for wool and other natural yarns.

Wet relies on moisture only and is preferred for some synthetic yarns and highly textured stitches in any yarn type. Yarn manufacturers sometimes recommend the proper blocking method. If there are no instructions, or you have doubts about which procedure to follow, use the wet method.

  Some yarn labels say “do not block.” Certain yarns do not respond well to blocking and may be altered unfavorably by it.  Most acrylic yarns and some blends are in this category.

A garment is usually blocked before sections are joined, they are easier to adjust in this state, and assembling is easier to do after blocking.

Steam Bocking

A steam iron is the best source of steam for this purpose. A dry iron and damp cloth can be substitiuted. The dry iron should be held lightly against the cloth without applying pressure.

To block a section, lay it wrong side up on a padded surface. Adjust measurements. Pin the corners, then pin along the edges. Fewer pins are usually better, but not if the edges become scalloped. Apply steam until piece is uniformly damp. Leave it pinned until dry. Remove the pins and press the piece lightly, if necessary.

Wet Blocking

Moisture alone is used to mold a piece. To block a section, lay it on a wet towel and adjust measurements, pinning if necessary. Lay a damp cloth over the piece, leave until dry.

To block a finished piece (one that is wet from washing), squeeze out excess moisture, lay piece on dry towel. Push piece into shape, check measurements if necessary, let dry thorougthly before moving.

Basic Technique: Chain the desired number of stitches plus one.

Row 1: Skip 1 chain, insert hook in the next chain, draw up a loop and leave it on the hook, repeat this across, do not turn work at the end of the row.

Row 2: Yarn over hook, draw yarn through first loop on hook, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, repeat yarn over, draw through 2 loops back across, do not turn the work, the 1 remaining loop counts as 1st st on next row.

Materials:

1 – 183 Lilac Ombre Peaches & Creme 4 PLY         

Worsted Weight 100 % Cotton Yarn

Size F/5 – 3.75 mm – Crochet Hook

Piece of felt or flannel, needle and thread.

Starting at center, ch 4.

1^st rnd: 11 dc in 4^th ch from hook: Sl st in

top st of turning ch.

2^nd rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st,

2 dc in each dc around ( 12 dc increased),

Join.

3^rd rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st, dc

in each dc around, increasing ( about 12 dc)

As necessary to keep work flat. Join.

4^th, 5^th, & 6^th rnd: Repeat 3^rd rnd 3 more

times. Fasten off.

Make 2 for each potholder.

Cut a piece of felt or flannel, slightly smaller

Than crocheted piece.

Hand stitch fabric to wrong side of one

Crocheted piece.

7^th rnd: With wrong side of crocheted pieces

together, join yarn in any dc. Ch 2, sc in same

place as joining, sc in each dc around, increasing

( about 12 sc) as necessary to keep work flat.

Join. (With out Fastening off).

For Hanger, Ch 20, join with sl st to

Same place as joining. Ch 1, turn. Sl st in each ch.

Sl st to same st as beginning ch. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

2 skeins of each yarn should make both Pillow and Afghan

Red Heart Super Saver Medium (4) Worsted Weight

2 – 0512 Turqua (1st color)

2 – 0656 Real Teal (2nd color)

2 – 0776 Dark Orchid (3rd color)

2 – 0358 Lavender (4th color)

2 – 0530 Orchid (5th color)

2 – 0718 Shocking Pink (6th color)

2 – 0722 Pretty n’ Pink (7th color)

For Pillow, you will also need, a piece of contrasting fabric and stuffing.

GAUGE – 7 dc = 2 1/2 inches, 4 rows of dc = 2 1/2 inches.

Starting with 1st color, Ch 4, join with sl st in beg ch, to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), work 11 hdc in ring, join with sl st in top of ch 2. – 12 hdc

Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in same stitch as ch 2, work 2 hdc in each hdc around.

Rnd 3: Ch 2 (counts as hdc). hdc in next hdc, *ch 3, skip next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc*,  repeat from * to * around, Join with sl st in top of ch 2. - 16 hdc, 8 ch 3 spaces. 

Rnd 4: Sl st to next ch 3 space, ch 3 ( counts as dc), work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, in same ch 3 space, * in next ch 3 space work, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc,* repeat from * to * around, join with sl st in top of ch 3.

Rnd 5: Sl st to next dc, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc, *in next ch 2 space work, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, skip 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * around, ending with skip 2 dc, join with sl st in top of ch 3. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: With 2nd color, join to any ch 2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, in same ch 2 space, *dc in next 3 dc, skip next 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, in next ch 2 space work, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc*, repeat from * to * around, ending with dc in last 3 dc, join with sl st in top of ch 3.

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in next 4 dc,  skip next 2 dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 space, *dc in next 4 dc, skip 2 dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 space*, repeat from * to * around, ending with, dc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in top of ch 3. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: With 3rd color, join to any ch 2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same ch 2 space, dc in next 5 dc, skip 2 dc, work, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 space, *dc in next 5 dc, skip 2 dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 space.* repeat from * to * around, ending with dc in last 5 dc, join with sl st in top of ch 3.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, in ch 2 space, dc in next 6 dc, skip 2 dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 space, * dc in next 6 dc, skip 2 dc, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 space*, repeat from * to * around, ending with, dc in last 4 dc, join with sl st in top of ch 3. Fasten off.

Rnd 10 – 45: Repeat pattern for rows 8 and 9, adjusting stitches to complete each round, and changing color of yarn as indicated.

Ending: With 1st color, join in any dc, slip stitch to make a decorative chain st to edge. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Make 2 tassels of 1st color and 1 tassel each of other colors, and attach to each point.

TASSEL

Cut a piece of cardboard 3″ wide and the lenght you want the tassel to be. Cut a 18″ length of yarn and lay it across the top of the cardboard. Wind yarn around the cardboard about 20 times, or more for thicker tassel. Pull the 18″ yarn up tighthly and tie securely. Leave the yarn ends long enough to attach the tassel. Cut the yarn at the opposite end of the cardboard and remove it. Cut a 6″ length of yarn and wrap it tightly around the tassel twice, 1″ below the top, tie securely. Trim ends.

Ripples of Color Star Pillow

Same as Ripples of Color Star Afghan. Except, changing to 2nd color on Rnd 5 instead of Rnd 6, and working only 1 Rnd of each color, for 10 Rnds. Make 2.

Cut 2 pieces of the fabric to the shape of the pillow, about 1/2 inch larger than pillow. Allow about a 1/4 inch seam. With right sides of fabric facing, sew the 2 pieces together, leaving an opening for stuffing. Turn right side out. Stuff lightly and hand sew the opening closed.

With wrong sides of both crocheted pillow pieces together, join 1st color of yarn to any dc, sl st through both pieces to make a decorative chain st to edge and to seam together. Sl st to close about 1/2 of pillow and slip the finished fabric pillow inside, matching peaks. Finish sl stitching to complete closing. Fasten off, weave in ends. Make 2 tassels of 1st color and 1 tassel each of other colors and attach to each point.

When the chilly, wet winter weather sets in, there’s not a lot of outdoor activities you want to be doing in rain or snow. However, snuggling up by the fire with some brightly colored yarns with which to make a throw blanket can be a great way to relieve boredom and cabin fever. The art of crochet has been practiced by people around the world for more than 200 years, as much for the artistic satisfaction as for the practical and useful results.

If this artistic hobby appeals to you, consider signing up for a beginning crochet class. You can start simply, with a couple of potholders, until you’ve perfected an evenness of stitch. Then you can move right on to a baby blanket. It’s such a rewarding hobby, it’s small wonder that you’ll find a yarn shop right in your home town that offers crochet clubs and classes. Start with a beginning crochet class. You’ll be joined with other beginners to crochet and an instruction who knows her stuff!

Yarn shops often sponsor these classes to entice new customers. Once you’ve learned how easy it is to make a hat for your son or daughter, you’re hooked, so to speak. Where are you most likely to buy your supplies? More than this obvious marketing purpose, people involved in textile arts tend to be a chummy and cordial group. So classes and weekly social groups all benefit the students and members. Once you get involved, you’ll look forward to enhancing your skills while having a good chat with friends.

Crochet is not difficult to learn. Your instructor is able to give one on one instruction and tips and techniques on attaining an even gauge in your stitches, a most important step to learn before moving on to a big blanket project. In a beginning crochet class, the instructor will cover all the basics that will allow you to proceed to the next level of difficulty with ease.

Crochet instructions, much like knitting instructions, are given in a sort of shorthand. For example, an asterisk, following an instruction, generally means that you are to repeat the last instruction a specific number of times. Numerous abbreviations are used for the various stitches, such as ’sc’ denoting the single crochet stitch and ‘dc’ indicating the double crochet. It doesn’t take long to memorize all this shorthand. Besides, every crochet pattern gives you a cheat sheet in the form of a key at the front of the instructions. Eventually, you won’t even need to refer to the key.

When you’ve completed your beginning crochet class, you advance to the next level. Who wants to give up a new group of friends? Or the pleasure gained from making some gifts for family and friends? Give it a try. If you need further inspiration, just browse the lovely yarns you can use to make beautiful and original creations?

Making chunk candles is an and fun activity for all ages. A unique technique using wax chunks of different colors gives the finished candle a beautiful texture and look. They make a refreshing alternative to the usual pillar candles. Follow these step-by-instructions and make your own pretty chunk candles to gift or keep.

** It is assumed that the reader has a basic knowledge of preparing the candle mold by spraying oil and wicking it and also for setting and removing the finished candles from the mold. Anyone who has made a pillar candle before will find this project very easy to follow.

What You Need

• Wick
• Paraffin Wax
• Candle Mold
• Candle dyes in various colors
• Shallow Tray

Directions:

1. First you will need to prepare chunks. You can use leftover chunks from other candle projects. Or you make new ones by melting wax, adding color and allowing to set in a shallow pan. You can use either single-colored or multi-colored chunks.

2. Prepare the mold by spraying oil and wicking it. Then fill the mold with chunks.

3. Melt (un-dyed) wax and add to the mold. Allow to set completely.

Note: You can make different types of candles by altering the number of colors and chunks used. You can choose all your chunks to be of the same color or different colors. The color of the ‘filler wax’ can also be white or any other color that you choose to have.

You can also cut out all your chunks in similar shapes or keep mismatched ones.

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